Our life in PNG just got a little bit better - we have a new Internet Service Provider. It's not the same as we are used to in Canada, but it's a big improvement from what we've been using for the past year. The speed is 6 times faster and we have 10 times the data available. We can even watch Netflix occasionally and have FaceTime chats again. We still have to monitor our usage and ration it out over the month, but it's a huge step up.
How do we get this fancy new internet? Well, it's certainly not a fibre-optic line nor is it a copper telephone line. We have an antenna on our balcony to receive the signal from a radio tower. Now I know how Marconi felt in 1901.
Anyway, we are very happy to have faster internet access. Now Lori can watch dog videos on the weekends.
db
1. the act of diverting or turning aside, as from a course or purpose. 2. an activity that diverts the mind from tedious or serious concerns; a recreation or pastime.
Tuesday, 19 July 2016
Thursday, 14 July 2016
Groceries
Last week Lori gave you her Top Ten list of things she misses in PNG. If I were to give you my list, almost every entry would be some type of food. Like I've always said - I love Lori first and food second, but it's a close race. I was spoiled in Cairns because I could find everything I wanted, but it's different story in Port Moresby. I thought I would give you a glimpse into a trip to the grocery store here.
Tomatoes are by far my favourite food. I eat a tomato of some sort every day - in a salad or a sauce or just whole with a little salt and pepper, but that has been tough to do in PNG. There isn't a big market for tomatoes because Papua New Guineans don't eat them, but they do grow them for the ex-pats. This is the best tomato that I've seen in 2 weeks.
Because the island is so mountainous, it's hard to find land flat enough to have any sort of large scale agriculture. Most of the vegetables are grown in small garden plots cut into the hillsides, but then the vendors have to get them to the grocery stores and reliable transportation can be an issue. Green leafy vegetables are the hardest to come by. I haven't seen any spinach since I've been here. You can get hydroponic lettuce from the greenhouses in Sogeri though, but you have to be at the store on the right day at the right time to get it fresh and it's never there at the same time. Usually the lettuce is pretty wilted by the time I get there.
Luckily the Zucchini is usually good. Every time I turn on the BBQ, I always throw some on the grill.
The other green vegetable that is usually okay is cabbage (after you peel off the outer leaves). I'm not a huge cabbage fan so I've had to get creative and use it in soups and Asian coleslaw.
Potatoes are hit and miss. These are the best potatoes that I've seen since I came back from Australia and they're still not that great.
The bread is pretty good I must say. They bake it fresh in the store everyday. The loaves are larger than we're used, so it makes bigger sandwiches.
Milk is imported from Australia and it's good, but because it's imported, getting it with a long expiry date is tough. We don't select the milk by type, we just look for the one with the date furthest away. Full fat, skim, whatever; it doesn't matter. We got lucky this week, I bought this on July 13 and it's good until the 19th.
We can't always get fresh milk so we make sure that we have a carton of UHT milk in the cupboard just in case. Anyone who's spent time in the Navy is familiar with UHT milk. It's milk that has been pasteurized at an Ultra High Temperature (hence UHT) and can be stored at room temperature for months. It's regular milk, but it doesn't have much taste anymore. Perfectly fine for tea or coffee but, it's not something you want to drink with a chocolate chip cookie.
One thing that you can always get at the grocery store is canned goods.
Canned fish, like tuna and mackerel, is plentiful.
As is corned beef.
A lot of people live in places without refrigeration, so canned and dry items are very popular. One of the community affairs guys that works with Lori, always has plenty of crackers and tuna in his vehicle to bring to meetings in the villages.
I'm so happy that I'll be in southern Ontario this summer because I'm craving asparagus, spinach, and corn on the cob. Usually I'm talking about bacon when I'm going home, but we have that covered here. It's the fresh stuff that I'm looking forward to this time.
Things are getting better though. A brand new grocery store has just opened up around the corner from us and so far they are doing a better job at getting in fresh veggies.
We are getting new restaurants as well. A new office complex opened on the downtown harbour front and 4 new restaurants are going in - Indian, Asian, Seafood, and a Sports Bar.
A very nice coffee shop called Duffy's has already opened.
We had a couple of lattes and a salted caramel brownie today.
PNG is entering the 21st century, but unfortunately a large portion of the population can't afford to eat in places like this. Hopefully in the coming years the unemployment rate will continue to drop and the money coming into the country from the mining and natural gas projects will make it to the people.
db
Tomatoes are by far my favourite food. I eat a tomato of some sort every day - in a salad or a sauce or just whole with a little salt and pepper, but that has been tough to do in PNG. There isn't a big market for tomatoes because Papua New Guineans don't eat them, but they do grow them for the ex-pats. This is the best tomato that I've seen in 2 weeks.
Because the island is so mountainous, it's hard to find land flat enough to have any sort of large scale agriculture. Most of the vegetables are grown in small garden plots cut into the hillsides, but then the vendors have to get them to the grocery stores and reliable transportation can be an issue. Green leafy vegetables are the hardest to come by. I haven't seen any spinach since I've been here. You can get hydroponic lettuce from the greenhouses in Sogeri though, but you have to be at the store on the right day at the right time to get it fresh and it's never there at the same time. Usually the lettuce is pretty wilted by the time I get there.
Luckily the Zucchini is usually good. Every time I turn on the BBQ, I always throw some on the grill.
The other green vegetable that is usually okay is cabbage (after you peel off the outer leaves). I'm not a huge cabbage fan so I've had to get creative and use it in soups and Asian coleslaw.
Potatoes are hit and miss. These are the best potatoes that I've seen since I came back from Australia and they're still not that great.
The bread is pretty good I must say. They bake it fresh in the store everyday. The loaves are larger than we're used, so it makes bigger sandwiches.
Milk is imported from Australia and it's good, but because it's imported, getting it with a long expiry date is tough. We don't select the milk by type, we just look for the one with the date furthest away. Full fat, skim, whatever; it doesn't matter. We got lucky this week, I bought this on July 13 and it's good until the 19th.
We can't always get fresh milk so we make sure that we have a carton of UHT milk in the cupboard just in case. Anyone who's spent time in the Navy is familiar with UHT milk. It's milk that has been pasteurized at an Ultra High Temperature (hence UHT) and can be stored at room temperature for months. It's regular milk, but it doesn't have much taste anymore. Perfectly fine for tea or coffee but, it's not something you want to drink with a chocolate chip cookie.
One thing that you can always get at the grocery store is canned goods.
Canned fish, like tuna and mackerel, is plentiful.
As is corned beef.
A lot of people live in places without refrigeration, so canned and dry items are very popular. One of the community affairs guys that works with Lori, always has plenty of crackers and tuna in his vehicle to bring to meetings in the villages.
I'm so happy that I'll be in southern Ontario this summer because I'm craving asparagus, spinach, and corn on the cob. Usually I'm talking about bacon when I'm going home, but we have that covered here. It's the fresh stuff that I'm looking forward to this time.
Things are getting better though. A brand new grocery store has just opened up around the corner from us and so far they are doing a better job at getting in fresh veggies.
We are getting new restaurants as well. A new office complex opened on the downtown harbour front and 4 new restaurants are going in - Indian, Asian, Seafood, and a Sports Bar.
A very nice coffee shop called Duffy's has already opened.
We had a couple of lattes and a salted caramel brownie today.
PNG is entering the 21st century, but unfortunately a large portion of the population can't afford to eat in places like this. Hopefully in the coming years the unemployment rate will continue to drop and the money coming into the country from the mining and natural gas projects will make it to the people.
db
Thursday, 7 July 2016
Life as an Ex-Pat
When we left Calgary in January 2013, we certainly didn’t expect to find ourselves on the other side of the world 3 ½ years later. Now, coming up on our 1 year anniversary in PNG, I am still astounded at the completely unexpected journey we’ve been on over the past few years. Some parts have been amazing, but there have been a lot more challenges than we would have expected. For me, living in PNG is a dream come true in many ways: I have an amazing job – as good as it gets for a lawyer who loves a challenge and being stretched to the max on a daily basis; we’re finally getting to live in a tropical climate (my dream – unfortunately not Dennis’); and Australia, New Zealand, Thailand, Vietnam, Japan, are all within a 5-8 hour flight away (now I just have to find the time to actually use up some of the 8 weeks of holidays I get each year to make it to all of those places!). It’s far harder on Dennis, but even for me, the longer we are away, the more I miss home and the more I appreciate it.
I don’t think that you can really appreciate Canada until you’ve spent some time away. Who knows whether it will last once we return, but I now have so much appreciation for a lot of “small” things in life that I no longer consider small at all.
1. Clean water. Here we can’t use water from the tap to fill the kettle or fill a pot to boil some vegetables - we have to use water from a bottled water cooler. Drinking bottled water in Canada now seems like a ridiculous thing.
2. Clean streets. One of the toughest things to handle here is how dirty everything is. They don’t clean the exteriors of buildings, and you can’t take windows out of the frames for security reasons, so during the dry windy season, which just started, we can barely see out of our windows at home or at the office. And there is garbage, garbage everywhere. There’s no way around it, plastic needs to be banned.
3. Proper medical care (which is free!) and our social safety net. The state of health and the degree of poverty in this nation can make you cry. TB is still a huge issue, the HIV infection rate is one of the highest in the world. And the vast majority of the population can’t actually afford any medical care at all. Being face to face each day with extreme poverty and its consequences is humbling.
Of course, while my liberal Catholic guilt stops me from turning into a complete expat monster (and boy there are a lot of them running around in PNG), and I am definitely grateful for how much better my life is than the average person in PNG and for all the financial benefits that coming here will bring us (early retirement here I come!), I still get to feel sorry for myself now and then, and if you lived here, you’d would have days like that too.
I’m keeping a top ten list of the everyday things that I miss not having. They may not seem like big things, but just imagine not having them or not being able to do them for a year (and OMG we still have another 2 years to go!)
1. Diet Pepsi –don’t ask me why this is number 1 – it just is.
2. Walking by myself.
3. Driving my own car.
4. Internet faster than 1mbps (yes you read that right – and we only get that speed on a good day).
5. Tide laundry detergent and bounce dryer sheets. ( I am SO tired of crappy laundry detergent.)
6. My own furniture (and not the stuff that comes with an apartment whether you like it or not – especially a proper pillow top mattress.)
7. Nice bars and restaurants, and good live bands.
8. Ordinary electrical outlets (not the ones where you have to switch on and off each socket individually).
9. Banks where the lineups are not 50 people long (I am not kidding).
10. DOGS. (This is my real number 1 and likely my number 2-9 as well. I miss Jake and Coco every single day and I cannot wait until we get back to Canada and adopt 2 or 3 dogs.)
Thanks to everyone who has been following along. It means a lot to Dennis and to me to know that people are still keeping up with our adventures (as well as our often boring life as expats). We miss you all.
Lori
I don’t think that you can really appreciate Canada until you’ve spent some time away. Who knows whether it will last once we return, but I now have so much appreciation for a lot of “small” things in life that I no longer consider small at all.
1. Clean water. Here we can’t use water from the tap to fill the kettle or fill a pot to boil some vegetables - we have to use water from a bottled water cooler. Drinking bottled water in Canada now seems like a ridiculous thing.
2. Clean streets. One of the toughest things to handle here is how dirty everything is. They don’t clean the exteriors of buildings, and you can’t take windows out of the frames for security reasons, so during the dry windy season, which just started, we can barely see out of our windows at home or at the office. And there is garbage, garbage everywhere. There’s no way around it, plastic needs to be banned.
3. Proper medical care (which is free!) and our social safety net. The state of health and the degree of poverty in this nation can make you cry. TB is still a huge issue, the HIV infection rate is one of the highest in the world. And the vast majority of the population can’t actually afford any medical care at all. Being face to face each day with extreme poverty and its consequences is humbling.
Of course, while my liberal Catholic guilt stops me from turning into a complete expat monster (and boy there are a lot of them running around in PNG), and I am definitely grateful for how much better my life is than the average person in PNG and for all the financial benefits that coming here will bring us (early retirement here I come!), I still get to feel sorry for myself now and then, and if you lived here, you’d would have days like that too.
I’m keeping a top ten list of the everyday things that I miss not having. They may not seem like big things, but just imagine not having them or not being able to do them for a year (and OMG we still have another 2 years to go!)
1. Diet Pepsi –don’t ask me why this is number 1 – it just is.
2. Walking by myself.
3. Driving my own car.
4. Internet faster than 1mbps (yes you read that right – and we only get that speed on a good day).
5. Tide laundry detergent and bounce dryer sheets. ( I am SO tired of crappy laundry detergent.)
6. My own furniture (and not the stuff that comes with an apartment whether you like it or not – especially a proper pillow top mattress.)
7. Nice bars and restaurants, and good live bands.
8. Ordinary electrical outlets (not the ones where you have to switch on and off each socket individually).
9. Banks where the lineups are not 50 people long (I am not kidding).
10. DOGS. (This is my real number 1 and likely my number 2-9 as well. I miss Jake and Coco every single day and I cannot wait until we get back to Canada and adopt 2 or 3 dogs.)
Thanks to everyone who has been following along. It means a lot to Dennis and to me to know that people are still keeping up with our adventures (as well as our often boring life as expats). We miss you all.
Lori
Wednesday, 29 June 2016
Bomana War Cemetery
We flew into Port Moresby on Monday evening. Lori was only on the ground for about 18 hours and then she was back on a plane to Singapore. It's unusual for me to be here when Lori isn't. Normally I don't like to take our vehicle and driver outside of the city in case Lori needs to go to a meeting or the courthouse, but since she wasn't here, I decided to get out and explore a bit.
There is a Commonwealth War Cemetery about 19 km north of Port Moresby in Bomana. There are over 3800 graves and the majority are of Australian soldiers, sailors and airmen who died during the Second World War between 1942 and 1945 in Papua New Guinea and Bougainville. There are some British soldiers and about 700 unknown soldiers as well.
I have visited several Commonwealth War Cemeteries in France and Holland and I'm always struck by how visually beautiful they are but incredibly sad at the same time. As I walked through the rows of headstones I was surprised to discover how old the troops were when they died. Many of them were in their 30's and some in their 40's. I was told that many of the troops who were sent to PNG to defend it from the Japanese were reservists, which would explain the ages.
db
There is a Commonwealth War Cemetery about 19 km north of Port Moresby in Bomana. There are over 3800 graves and the majority are of Australian soldiers, sailors and airmen who died during the Second World War between 1942 and 1945 in Papua New Guinea and Bougainville. There are some British soldiers and about 700 unknown soldiers as well.
I have visited several Commonwealth War Cemeteries in France and Holland and I'm always struck by how visually beautiful they are but incredibly sad at the same time. As I walked through the rows of headstones I was surprised to discover how old the troops were when they died. Many of them were in their 30's and some in their 40's. I was told that many of the troops who were sent to PNG to defend it from the Japanese were reservists, which would explain the ages.
db
Tuesday, 21 June 2016
Mt. Whitfield Hike
Since it's our last week here, we decided to rent a car again. There is a conservation area just outside of the city and it's a great place to hike, but you need to drive there. Lori and I went the last time we rented a car and I went again today, but I hiked a different trail this time. It was definitely more rugged than the first trail we hiked, but it was totally safe. Nice wide paths with guardrails everywhere.
To be honest, I probably shouldn't have gone alone. If I had rolled an ankle, I would've been in big trouble, but it was just so beautiful.
And I finally got to see a wallaby. I heard a noise behind me and I thought it was just going to be another brush-turkey, but it was this guy having lunch.
It was as if the Australian Tourism board heard me complain that I hadn't seen any indigenous wildlife and they went out and placed him there for me. Still haven't seen a crocodile yet, but I'm okay with that.
db
P.S. Sorry about the photos, I only had my phone with me.
To be honest, I probably shouldn't have gone alone. If I had rolled an ankle, I would've been in big trouble, but it was just so beautiful.
And I finally got to see a wallaby. I heard a noise behind me and I thought it was just going to be another brush-turkey, but it was this guy having lunch.
It was as if the Australian Tourism board heard me complain that I hadn't seen any indigenous wildlife and they went out and placed him there for me. Still haven't seen a crocodile yet, but I'm okay with that.
db
P.S. Sorry about the photos, I only had my phone with me.
Monday, 20 June 2016
Our Last Week in Cairns
Just like that, 5 months have passed and our stay in Cairns is coming to an end. Lori flies in on Wednesday for an extended weekend and then we both fly back to Port Moresby on Monday. I've really enjoyed my time here; diving, golfing, hiking, eating in great restaurants, getting decent fruits and vegetables, but I'm looking forward to spending more time together with Lori. Although, we'll only be together for a month and then I'll be on my way back to Canada at the end of July and I won't see Lori until mid-September.
I'm not sure if we'll rent a place in Cairns again. It's great because it's so close to PNG, but I've been planning a 3 month trip to New Zealand in the new year. I'd like to be mobile and explore all of New Zealand so at first we thought we would rent a camper van, but now, I think maybe we'll just rent a car and rent apartments or cottages. We haven't decided yet. It's a longer flight, so Lori wouldn't be coming up for weekends, instead she would come up for a week or 10 days every month. I would say that I'd love have you come for a visit, but since no one came to see us here, I doubt that anyone will come to New Zealand.
db
I'm not sure if we'll rent a place in Cairns again. It's great because it's so close to PNG, but I've been planning a 3 month trip to New Zealand in the new year. I'd like to be mobile and explore all of New Zealand so at first we thought we would rent a camper van, but now, I think maybe we'll just rent a car and rent apartments or cottages. We haven't decided yet. It's a longer flight, so Lori wouldn't be coming up for weekends, instead she would come up for a week or 10 days every month. I would say that I'd love have you come for a visit, but since no one came to see us here, I doubt that anyone will come to New Zealand.
db
Monday, 6 June 2016
Great Week
Normally when Lori heads back to Port Moresby early on a Monday morning she takes a taxi, but this morning I got to drive her to the airport. We rented a car for the week and it was so nice to have some freedom. It felt so normal, except for driving on the left side of the road. I actually took a driving lesson a couple of weeks ago, just so I would feel comfortable behind the wheel. It went well for the most part, but I would occasionally turn the windshield wipers on instead of my turn signal.
We went for a hike in the rain forest near Barron Gorge. It was beautiful, but I spent most of the time looking up for tree kangaroos. Still no luck.
Then we stopped at Trinity Beach for lunch.
I've seen this a few time now. They have first aid stations set up for anyone who gets stung by a jellyfish. There are bottles of vinegar and instructions on how to treat the wound.
Another day, we drove up the coast to the resort town of Port Douglas. If anyone is looking for a tropical vacation on a resort, I highly recommend Port Douglas. It is beautiful.
We also spent some time hiking just outside of town near the airport. The first spot was a killer, we went up 320 metres, but the view was fantastic.
Our next stop was also near the airport, but it was a leisurely walk through to mangroves. Still haven't seen a crocodile either.
On our last day, we decided to take it easy so we went out on the Spirit of Cairns again, but this time it was for a lunch cruise during the day.
Instead of going out to sea, we stayed in Trinity inlet and went towards Admiralty Island.
It was a great week. I even used the car to make a couple of trips to the golf course.
db
We went for a hike in the rain forest near Barron Gorge. It was beautiful, but I spent most of the time looking up for tree kangaroos. Still no luck.
Then we stopped at Trinity Beach for lunch.
I've seen this a few time now. They have first aid stations set up for anyone who gets stung by a jellyfish. There are bottles of vinegar and instructions on how to treat the wound.
Another day, we drove up the coast to the resort town of Port Douglas. If anyone is looking for a tropical vacation on a resort, I highly recommend Port Douglas. It is beautiful.
We also spent some time hiking just outside of town near the airport. The first spot was a killer, we went up 320 metres, but the view was fantastic.
Our next stop was also near the airport, but it was a leisurely walk through to mangroves. Still haven't seen a crocodile either.
On our last day, we decided to take it easy so we went out on the Spirit of Cairns again, but this time it was for a lunch cruise during the day.
Instead of going out to sea, we stayed in Trinity inlet and went towards Admiralty Island.
It was a great week. I even used the car to make a couple of trips to the golf course.
db
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